A single vineyard offering made simply, notes the back label. If this approach is also key to the waft of aniseed, violet, dark fruit allusions and inky depth of seaweed and black olive tapenade, I salute. This is all of those. This estate has moved light years beyond the stasis when last tasted. Winemaking now on equal terms with the vineyard care.
Published 01 August 2019 Ned Goodwin MW