Quite alcoholic smelling but this doesn’t subsume the aromatic basil-like herbs and (positive) eucalypt notes. With air, there’s chocolate and sweet roast meats. Has warmth and chew on the palate, but it’s somehow mellow and rounded.A touch of sea saltiness provides welcome sapidity, and a lick of soy. Could do with another five years. 94(95)/100, 8/10,  

Out of 100 = empiric rating.

Out of 10= hedonic – how much I like it. Brackets = the rating when drunk at its best.

Tim White