SINCE they got their organic certification nailed and the new cellar sales rockin’, Louise and the Jochster, and those two wicked infant lasses (who look like they just fell off the Sistine Chapel ceiling, straight into an Arthur Rackham painting), seem to be striding forth with a newfound confidence and assertion, regardless of a string of difficult years.
This is a highly perfumed, pretty thing to sniff: it seems decked with musky fairy floss and confectioners’ sugar. Below that lies the juniper, bay, blueberry and blackberry. It smells really tantalising, and reminds me of the Bordeaux from Michelle Dietrich’s Chateau Haut-Rian. The palate’s tight, strapping and perfectly Caberneted: slender, intense and velvety. It leaves a little dark chocolate-covered coffee bean behind in your mouth, with persistent fine dry tannin and some really appetising acidity, all balanced and composed, but hanging out for four more years in the dungeon.
If you must have it now, go pink rack of lamb with plenty of rosemary, caramelised parsnips, and a hearty chunky mash of pumpkin, carrot, spud and raw Spanish onion.
92 +++ points